First Bite - Graffiato

Few restaurant openings in Washington DC have inspired the same type of palpable excitement that has been generated by Mike Isabella’s Graffiato. This Chinatown “hot spot” has barely been open a week, but the buzz has been building since Isabella left his head chef position at Zaytinya. Yet, after eating my first meal at Graffiato I can confidently say that all the hype has been worth it.

I was lucky enough to snag one of the first reservations at Graffiato and met a handful of friends there on Sunday night. (I guess that is what you get for obsessively calling the restaurant until no longer getting a busy signal). After arriving we were promptly seated at a table that wasn’t in the kitchen, but it was as close as you could get. Chef Isabella and Bryan Voltaggio were standing mere inches from us and kibbitzing. Not a bad way to start the evening, especially when you combine it with a glass of bubbly prosecco on tap.

From there things only improved. A few of us had been thinking about getting the chef’s tasting menu, but our server thoughtfully steered us away from it. He said that it made more sense (and it would be less expensive) to just order whatever we wanted off the menu. He was absolutely right. All 5 of us left full and happy and paid significantly less than we would have (under $35 - before drinks but with tax and tip).

Right off the bat we put in an order for the fresh mozzarella and the bread basket. The mozz came out warm and it was topped with a lovely fava bean puree and some fruity olive oil. The homemade bread basket held a treat for everyone at the table. Some of us loved the olive bread (we think there were also raisins hiding in there) while others were smitten with the sweet polenta corn bread. Yet, we all could agree that the olive oil jam & fresh ricotta took something that was merely “good” and elevated it to “great.”

Next up were 2 pizzas. Our server told us without hesitation that his favorite was the Countryman with black truffles, fontina and a duck egg. Done and done. We also opted to order the White House, a beautiful pie topped with mozzarella, taleggio, ricotta and black pepper honey. Both exceeded expectations with their crust and combinations of toppings. The Countryman had a delightful balance of earthy and upscale ingredients. It had a smokiness and saltiness that was unlike anything I had previously tried in this city. On the other hand the White House was something that screamed summer to me. The combination of cheeses mingling with the fresh honey made it the perfect pizza to devour on a hot summer night.

We couldn’t leave Graffiato without trying Chef Isabella’s award winning dishes on Top Chef All Stars - the infamous chicken thighs with pepperoni sauce and the roasted gnocchi with pork ragu, whipped burrata, and picked ramps. These lived up to all expectations that Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons set on tv. What made it even better was our first table-side visit from the chef himself. He told us a delightful story about going with his wife to Pennsylvania to pick 30lbs of ramps. Now how many chefs do you know that do that?

There were 2 additional dishes that made their way to the table. We opted to be semi-healthy and order the wood roasted mushrooms and the sweet corn agnolotti. The mushrooms were complemented by a handful of sweet and spicy cherry peppers and a wonderful addition of mustard. It was not a traditional way of serving them, but it didn’t matter. There wasn’t a single speck left in the dish. The agnolotti (kinda like mini ravioli) were filled with a sweet mixture of cheese and corn puree and they were topped with pine nuts. It was perfection in a bite.

Now, if you thought that we would leave without trying dessert you are crazy. I had originally had my heart set on an order of zeppoles, but apparently they haven’t started making them yet. Oh well, just another reason to return in the future. But, our last course did not disappoint. First up was a slice of chocolate tart (with a pinenut crust!) that was served with sea salt gelato. Looking at it you would have expected something ridiculously rich, instead it was light with the perfect amount of sweetness. We also ordered a cup of dark chocolate gelato that was quite sinful, and a plate of beautiful Nutella cookies. Chocolate coma is the only appropriate phrase for the end of this evening.

The meal was a standout from start to finish. Each course tasted better than the last and the service would be worthy of the highest Zagat rating. I have no doubts that Graffiato will become a go-to hangout for Washington, and will deserve every ounce of praise that visitors, locals and critic give it.

First Bite - Smith Commons

Smith Commons is named for the most ubiquitous surname in England and the US. Luckily, this new H Street restaurant is anything but common; instead it stands out from the other food options along this corridor. Chef Frederik De Pue has created a menu full of that is full of creative, yet approachable cuisine and has stocked the bar with plenty of craft beers and imaginative cocktails that can satisfy any palate.

Even though Smith Commons is the new kid on the block, they appear to operating like an old pro. We were seated for our reservation in a timely manner, even though the bar was bustling and there was a large group of people gathering around the hostess stand. The waitress seemed well versed on the menu and was happy to make recommendations.

The night we went, the kitchen was offering a limited menu because they had been open less than a week. Yet, the menu still felt more than adequate with a nice selection of appetizers, salads, a soup, entrees, various cuts of meat and sides. Both Elliot and I are suckers for macaroni and cheese. I also happen to think that it can say a lot about the quality of ingredients that are being used in the kitchen. The manchego cheese was full of flavor, and I was pleasantly surprised to find little oil at the bottom of the ramekin. Was it may favorite dish of the night? No, not really. But I do have to give the kitchen credit for doing justice to a comfort food favorite.

For our main meal Elliot ordered the half-pound burger and I opted for the wood-grilled tiger prawns. My giant shrimp were served with a watermelon and tomato chutney (the menu refers to it as a dressing, but I think it’s an inaccurate description). The shrimp were well seasoned and the “dressing” was good enough to ask for extra bread to absorb the remaining juices on the plate.

I know that a burger seems boring, especially considering the long list of places in DC where you can get a way above average version. This one absolutely stood out with the grilled portabellas and miso mayo. The meat was juicy and the brioche bun absorbed all the exceptional flavors that came from it. It was this dish that reinforced to both Elliot and I that this is going to be a great neighborhood place to watch a game while enjoying a pint and a burger.

Speaking of places to hang out, Smith Commons has 3 floors with 3 bars and 2 lounge areas. These cozy nooks will soon be serving small plates alongside the beer, cocktails and wine that they are already offering. This will be a perfect location to come on a date or with a group of lively group of friends. Though it is worth noting that you can't order every drink at every bar; some of the beer taps don't extend all the way.

And so even though Smith Commons is still in its infancy, I have a good feeling that this will quickly become one an acclaimed place to eat on H Street.

District 2 Bar

If you head to the corner of Wisconsin and Macomb NW, you will find the newly opened District 2 Bar & Grille where you will be treated to innovative takes on traditional American bar food.

District 2 is named for the police department that is located around the corner. It seems appropriate because I could very easily see a bunch of policemen hanging out in the restaurant on their off hours. There are high backed booths, a long wooden bar and large flat screens TVs on just about every wall. I can absolutely envision people coming here to have a beer and watch football (they have the game-day package on DirecTV).

I went to the restaurant with two of my best friends from my college sorority, and we decided on this restaurant because their menu said they had fried pickles. One of my friends saw that and replied to an email by saying “I am not Snookie, but those just sound SO good.” Fair enough. And really, who am I to turn down anything fried, especially when it includes my favorite Kosher pickles.

Even though that is what got us in the door, we soon found out that the pickles were no longer on the menu due to limited kitchen space. Apparently they will be returning as soon as an additional fryer comes in, but for the time being they have been 86’ed. After inner Snookie got over the pickle disappointment we ordered the spicy Chorizo dip. The dip was not terribly spicy, but it did have a nice flavor. It was served with chips that were gave the creamy dip the touch of salt that it needed.

We decided to order two main dishes and split them among the 3 of us. The D2 Mac & Cheese was pretty much awesome, but I can only begin to imagine the sheer number of calories that it contains. The dish is cork screw pasta that is smothered in beer cheese fondue and topped with bread crumbs. The flavors blended nicely to create an enviable version of this classic.

In an effort to be healthy we opted to go with the grilled chicken platter as our second dish. As soon as the plate was set down in front of us we were validated in our decision to only order two main dishes. There was at least a pound and a half of chicken next to a larger serving of mashed potatoes and grilled mushrooms and onions. The chicken was moist and seasoned well, not something that is expected when ordering bar food.

Even though I would give the atmosphere and the food a thumbs up I have to give the service a bit fat X. It took over 10 minutes to get water and the waiter barely paid attention to us throughout our meal. I even had to get up to track down our waiter to get an extra set of silverware. If District 2 can get their act together I envision this restaurant sticking around longer than Alliance Tavern and Enology.

God Loves Us and Wants Us To Be Happy

Benjamin Franklin once said that, "beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." As someone who is not the biggest beer drinker, I would have been up for a good argument with with this Founding Father. Well, before heading to Birch & Barley with my Dad, anyway. We met there for a final dinner before he headed back to Cleveland.

And though I have never been to a Neighborhood Restaurant Group establishment - as many of them are in Virginia and my car lives in Ohio - I have certainly heard people praise the overall experience at their restaurants. Lucky for me, NRG just opened up their first restaurant/bar in the District. I'm even luckier because it's located in Logan Circle and around the corner from my dad's hotel.

The evening at Birch & Barley did not start off so great. Frankly, it had me wondering why people always go on and on about NRG restaurants and their service. Although the hostesses at the front door were nice, it seemed as if they were unprepared for the sheer number of people coming through their doors. When I was told that we were going to have to wait for our table to be ready even though we had a reservation, they weren't entirely sure where to stand without getting being in the way. We wandered up the steep, wooden stairs to see the hubbub that is ChurchKey. It was a Wednesday night at 8:00 p.m. and the place was hopping. The back of the bar showcased the infamous 555 different beers that have been imported to the restaurant from over 30 countries. I would have loved to hang out upstairs a bit longer, but there wasn't a spot to be had at the bar... or anywhere near to the bar, for that matter.

Downstairs at the back of the restaurant is a bar that is considerably more subdued than the one upstairs. The list of beers on tap was incredibly impressive, but what was more awe inspiring was the design behind the bar. There is a series of what appears to be copper pipes the are connected to the 50 kegs upstairs. The lumination from the tealights on the walls reflecting off of the pipes reminded me of the organ at my synagogue in Cincinnati. Maybe Birch & Barley sees beer as somewhat of a religious experience. But on to more important things: the beer! The selection of beer on tap is impressive, even to someone who doesn’t typically enjoy beer. Our bartender acted as a sommelier of sorts and allowed my father and I to try a number of different beers that he thought we would enjoy. I wound up with a beer from the category “sweet and tangy,” and my dad had a beer from Great Lakes Brewery. It was almost like he had never left Cleveland.

When we finally sat down, I was more than ready to feed my grumbling tummy. Thank goodness the food did not disappoint. Prior to visiting the restaurant I had heard about their amazing bread plate. Oh goodness, there are not words that can adequately describe how wonderful that platter full of hot carbs smelled and tasted. The hit of the table was absolutely the fresh pieces of pretzel. This is no Auntie Anne’s in the mall or New York City street vendor, it is an honest to goodness delicacy. I was pleasantly surprised to taste just enough salt without being overpowered (the crime that gives hot pretzels a bad rap).

The next course at our table could have been called the beet course. Beets are a fairly new addition to my list of favorite vegetables and the dishes that we tried confirmed my newfound love. I chose to have the Vialone Nano Risotto, also known as risotto with roasted beets, wilted greens and goat cheese. The beets made the risotto rice a gorgeous burgundy color that tasted as pretty as it looked, and the addition of the goat cheese gave a wonderful creamy texture to the dish. It was bit too rich to eat with another course coming, but it made a wonderful light lunch the next day. Dad had the beet salad, which I fully expected to be some beets over leafy grains with a few pecans on top of it. Not even close. This was a beautiful cup of beets with a citrus vinaigrette. Yum.

I presumed the main course would be somewhat of a letdown. After all, this is a fairly new restaurant, and at most new restaurants there is always something that isn't quite up to par. Not at Birch and Barley; kudos to them! My skate was cooked so that it was flaky and it had absorbed the parmesan broth to give it this wonderfully unexpected flavor. The Brat Burger that my dad ordered looked like monstrosity of meat topped with sauerkraut. I only took a little bite (sans sauerkraut), but that was ok. My dad ate the entire thing.

Saying goodbye to my dad was made slightly easier by the perfect, little key-lime icebox cake that capped off the meal. It was the perfect mixture of sweet and tart. A wonderful end to a wonderful evening.

image: dailycandy.com and seriouseats.com